Repairing the Bulkhead or Replacing the Rigging? WHAT COMES FIRST? Patrick Childress Sailing #52

I don’t know why designers and builders
put chain plates right up against Plywood bulkheads so we are going to
change this to this and it will never deteriorate again hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
Childress on the Valiant 40 brick house
we are currently hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa going through the boat
doing a lot of things making some modifications and getting this boat ready to cross the Atlantic to South America. What sips gonna do this morning is
to take this little angle grinder and get into this crack right here at the
toe rail and get in here and grind this out I know this is all solid fiberglass
in here but there might be some voids I can’t imagine why it cracked like this
but we’ll dig this out round it out take it out to here maybe up to here and then
we’ll lay in some thin fiberglass cloth and rebuild it this is the hole for the
upper shroud chain plate and we will be working today on that bulkhead that the
chainplate was attached to our chain plates are made of grade five titanium
grade five titanium is three and a half times stronger than 316 stainless steel
grade five titanium is impervious to the marine environment there’s no sense in
having such high quality chain plates if I’m little suspicious of the bulkhead to
which it is attached so we’ll be digging into that bulkhead today and fix
anything that we find wrong with it all of our chain plates mast tangs and
clevis pins are all made of grade five titanium any lesser grade just wouldn’t
do and we get all of our titanium products from allied titanium in
Washington State they also have an office in Delaware if you would like
more detailed information on the use of titanium on a sailboat you can refer to
my article in practical sailor magazine December 2011 titled the great titanium
trickle down and of course that’s accessible online okay
41 years old that’s older than you isn’t it I’m sure you’re gonna last better
than this boat though yeah we’ll fix it up good make it make it good for
crossing the Atlantic I’m gonna be down below taking slats out and getting
things ready so we can work down below after this is all ground out – see you
in a few minutes okay so I’m down here in the starboard
side and I’ve taken. Let me get this light turned on here. I’ve taken everything out
of our stereo cabinet so I could get to this is insulation that’s why it doesn’t
look so good just peel back and I wanted to get to this tabbing because I saw
that it was loose so I’ve pulled this tabbing away from the bulkhead and it’s
nice to see that there’s no rot or anything it’s still solid, it’s in good
shape but it had been damp behind there that’s
probably why this pulled away so I have the dryers on here they’ve been running
all night and they have a little heater over here on this side I’m gonna let it
run for another 24 hours it looks pretty good up here the tabbing on the other
bulkhead where there’s this what is it an Aft lower shroud chain plate all that
tabbing is in good condition and over here I’ve been ripping out the ceiling
and I’ll be pulling all these slats out to get them out we’ll finish those we’ll
send them down so this is a ceiling panel that I took down on the backside
here it says Marlite planks blocks panels man-made finish hardboard. Hardboard
would be more of a generic name for this stuff masonite is another brand name
manufacturer of hard board but it’s a paper product compressed heat treated
with a hard finish on one side and this is what happens to it when it gets a
little wet occasionally this came down from over the galley actually over the
stove and it’s all alligatored, and you can see the
paper here sort of pulling away here I would not call that marine grade so we
replace these with fiberglass panels that I had made here in the boatyard and
incredibly expensive I had to do that because the Jeep that has been loaned to
us at that point it was in the shop I just couldn’t run out and get something
else but we have been using PVC polyvinyl chloride sheets for sealing
material this is a small piece of the panel that we use for the ceiling
and they come in four by eight sheets that it’s four feet wide eight feet long
in one eight in one quarter-inch thicknesses this is PVC polyvinyl
chloride same stuff that water pipes are made out of very smooth shiny surface on
both sides its aerated in the center so it’s late it isn’t silent yeah but it is
very flexible the only negative that I see about this
is that it is a bit on the soft side you can actually take your thumbnail and
really press in and cause an indentation so care must be taken when working with
it it does scratch easily but once it’s up then it’s really no problem it’s very
easy to clean with some Windex to clean off any mildew or maybe some dirt that
somehow got up there good stuff lasts forever water doesn’t bother it and this was a little dampen so I’ve had
just a little leak from the chain plate I think the the hole for the chainplate
coming through the deck was just too tiny to get enough sealant in there
butyl sealant so I’m gonna build this area up the way outside so I’ll have to
do a voiceover apparently there was just a tiny leak maybe the hole wasn’t big
enough to carry enough butyl sealant to seal the chain plate properly but the
bulkhead did get a little damp this the tabbing on this side is in good shape
but what I’ll do is take thick and epoxy and smoothen the whole area and build
this up and make sure everything is nice and tight and then painting varnishing
that just won’t work so we’ll put some plastic laminate like Formica over the
top of this and make it look good but the whole idea will be to isolate this
bulkhead from any potential water in the future we’ll get these slats out of here
sand them down varnish them make them look good we’ll put everything back in
here so any owner in the future will never have a problem with water
intrusion in this area or problems with water affecting the bulkhead pulling
these slats everything has to be numbered for their proper orientation
back in place and an arrow showing what side is actually going up otherwise it
becomes a tremendous puzzle trying to figure out what slat went in what
particular position these flats were installed at the Valiant factory using
common steel Brad’s and these Brad’s are so deteriorated most of them don’t have
much gripping ability anymore and some of these brands I can’t pull out of the
wood I have to drill them out because they’re so rusty just to get those rusty
heads out and then the hole will be filled with putty and then sanded and
then everything will be varnished and looking pretty good again reinstalling
these latts I’ll be using stainless steel pan
head screws when I first checked the moisture
reading of this bulkhead it was up there around 25 percent which
is rather high and after two days of the heaters drying this bulkhead it has
gotten down to 10% 8% and normally 8 to 12 percent is furniture-grade kill dried
lumber so this bulkhead is good to go we are ready to reassemble things I decided not to just reglue this
tabbing to the bulkhead but I’m going to rip the tabbing out from the bulkhead
and also from the fiberglass Hall and installed new layers of fiberglass
tabbing this actually came out a bit easier than
what I anticipated but it’s not unusual for old fiberglass tabbing to get a
little weak in its join with the fiberglass hull but we’ll be putting
this back far stronger than what the factory ever did after wire brushing and then sanding
with 40 and then 60 grit paper it’s time to wipe everything down with the acetone
but in a confined area like this boy you sure you have to be able to hold your
breath for a long time I’ve got two layers of by bias… biaxial and with a
chopped strand mat backing we’ll put this one on first and then this one over
lays it and we have things set up in here so some plastic so I don’t make too
much of a mess this piece of plywood is gonna go up here so I can wet out the
fiberglass to go back up in the corner here I made a fillet and I just had a
little round disc of fiberglass and I used that it’s like a big silver dollar
just a round circle of fiberglass and I use that to squish in thickened epoxy so
that’s epoxy resin thickened with Cabolil so that helps to make a radius so
that the fiberglass cloth won’t have to make too tight of a turn so I’ll be
following the old profile of where the tabbing went long here then back into
here and then I’m going to put a second layer of fiberglass cloth and that’ll
come back over to here so actually it’s going to be a thicker and stronger than
the previous tabbing I’m using epoxy resin on all of these
repair projects and the thin roller it does a great job of rolling out in
squeezing out the excess resin and any air bubbles that might be trapped in the
resin and the cloth once the fiberglassing is done in while the resin
is still wet then the peel ply goes on peel ply is a
polyester cloth and it helps to lay down the fibers of the fiberglass and makes
for a much easier nicer smoother finish so they’ll be little or no sanding
needed in this application but then I suddenly decided to lay up two more
layers of the combicloth and more Peelply so in the end the lay up is twice as
thick as what I originally intended so let’s go around to the other side and
here on this side of the bulkhead I just finished sanding all of the glue
everything that I use to level out in here I use the Bosch sander for sanding
all of this up here and what an amazing tool just the power of the machine
itself blows a lot of that dust down this tube in a way there was hardly any
dust coming out but what I noticed there was some dust then I went and turned on
the vacuum cleaner and it’s amazing just how dust free of an operation it becomes
what a good machine and I’m plugging up the hole up here where the chain plate
came through we’re gonna patch that up from the outside make it nice and solid
so when the plastic laminate goes up here any water that might come through a
chain plate hole is not going to touch this bulkhead though the wood bulkhead
it’ll only be able to run down the plastic laminate to eliminate any
potential riding situation for a future owner of this boat so everything is in
here both sides very well tabbed in and now it’s a matter of sort of putting
everything back together again and now I have to get a laminate trimmer a power
tool to trim out to cut out the plastic laminate I’ll first make some templates
and then cut it down on the ground and cut it to shape and get ready to install so rather than trying to make one big
template out of one big sheet of cardboard I’m going to cut this up to
make smaller pieces and then glue them together all right so we have a pretty good
template here a couple little adjustments to make when I lay it out
and it’ll fill this piece in cut a little off the bottom this comes up a
quarter-inch comes back over to that arrow and then I’ll cut it see how well
it fits well that’s all that we have time for today in this video but the
next video will pick up right where we left off
cutting the plastic laminate for this bulkhead that’s right behind me I hope
this video is worthwhile for it if it was please click on the thumbs up button
down below there and also the subscribe button if you
haven’t already also in the video description there will be a link to the
tip jar if you don’t mind helping out in that direction that lets us know that
the videos are being appreciated and certainly gives us encouragement to
continue making them also in the video description will be a link to the
practical sailor titanium article so thanks a lot for
watching we’ll see you next time

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Post navigation

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *